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Seasonal

Hurricane Season Gutter Checklist for Jacksonville Homes

The second week of September is the statistical peak of the Atlantic hurricane season, and Jacksonville has spent the last decade learning that a storm does not have to make landfall here to matter. Matthew in 2016 stayed offshore and still put the Riverside riverwalk under water. Irma in 2017 came up the peninsula and flooded San Marco from the St. Johns. The gutters on those houses did not cause the flooding, but a lot of them ended up on the lawn, and the ones that stayed up were the ones somebody had looked at beforehand.

This is that look. It takes 20 minutes from the ground and a ladder, and every item on it is a cheap fix now and an expensive one after.

The walk-around: the gutter itself

1. Hangers and straps

Walk the house and sight down every gutter run. A gutter that dips in the middle has hangers backing out. Push up on the front lip at a few points; if it moves more than a little, the hangers are loose. Tropical-storm wind gets under a loose gutter, and a 40-foot run of aluminum becomes a sail that takes fascia with it. Loose hangers are a $150–$300 re-hang per run today. At the Beaches, check the screws for rust; zinc-plated hardware fails in salt air while the gutter looks fine.

2. Downspout straps

Each downspout should have a strap every 8 feet and one at the top elbow. Grab the downspout and pull. If it swings, the straps have rusted or the screws have pulled out of the block. A downspout that comes off in a storm takes the outlet with it and the run overflows at that corner for the rest of the season. Straps are a $20 fix per downspout.

3. Fascia

Press a screwdriver into the fascia board below each corner and under each downspout elbow. Firm is good. If it sinks in, the board is soft and the hangers there are holding nothing. New gutters cannot go on soft fascia and neither can the old ones after the wind lifts them. Fascia replacement is $8–$20 a foot and usually a few boards, not the whole house.

4. Outlets and flow

Run a hose in each gutter for a minute. Water should reach the downspout and come out the bottom in under 30 seconds. If it pools, the pitch has gone. If it backs up at the outlet, there is a plug of pine straw in the top of the downspout, which is where almost every Jacksonville clog lives. Wind-driven rain in a storm loads the gutter with twigs and needles on top of that; a downspout that is already half plugged goes solid in the first hour.

The walk-around: the ground and the roof

5. Extensions

Every downspout should end at least four feet from the wall on ground that slopes away. A tropical system can drop six to ten inches over two days; that water landing at the slab edge on Jacksonville sand carves a channel and takes the fill under the slab with it. Kick the extensions back into place, and if they are in the garage, put them back on. Downspouts and your foundation explains why this is the item that matters most.

6. The roof edge

From the ladder, check that the shingles overhang the gutter by about half an inch and that there is a metal drip edge under them. Missing drip edge lets wind-driven rain run behind the gutter and down the fascia. Look for shingle tabs already lifted along the eave; wind gets under those first.

7. Trees

Look up. Water oak and laurel oak limbs over the roof are the ones that come down; both are short-lived, weak-wooded trees and Jacksonville is full of them. A limb on the roof edge crushes the gutter and often the fascia. Pine limbs are less likely to fall but drop a season's worth of needles in one night of wind. Trimming is a tree service job, but note what is over the gutters so you know where to look afterward.

The checklist in one place

  • Sight every run for sag; push on the lip for loose hangers
  • Pull on each downspout; replace rusted straps
  • Screwdriver test the fascia at every corner and elbow
  • Hose test for flow; clear the outlet plugs
  • Extensions on and four feet out
  • Drip edge present, shingle overhang correct
  • Note the limbs over the roof edge

If a storm is already named

Do not get on a ladder in the wind. From the ground, kick the extensions into place, pull anything loose out of the gutter you can reach, and take photos of every run and downspout for a before-and-after record. After the storm, photograph any damage before touching it; the gutter repair page explains what we document for insurance and what goes to the front of the schedule. If the walk-around turns up more than two or three items, a cleaning and inspection visit this week covers all of them in one trip, and the inspection is free.

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